Saturday, September 27, 2008

Oktoberfest, auf wiedersehen


Last Saturday the 20th we went to Oktoberfest in the Fremont neighborhood (same place where we attended the Summer Solstice festival back in June). It’s a showcase for many of the microbreweries the Pacific Northwest is known for. There were over thirty breweries pouring more than sixty beers, so the tasting opportunities were quite extensive.

I tried around seven different beers. My favorite, the one I went back for seconds of, was the Seattle-based Laughing Buddha Brewery’s Ginger Pale Ale. Normally, I do not like flavored beer at all. But this ginger-infused brew really worked; the tastes of ginger, malt, and hops all complemented one another, and the ginger flavor was refreshing, not cloying. Thumbs (or rather, bottoms) up!

We were about to leave around 2 p.m. with tasting tokens still in our pockets, feeling rather full of beer and kind of bloated and tired, when we ran into David’s coworker Dominic and his friend Betsy, who is a biostatistician getting her PhD at the University of Washington. We decided to walk a couple of blocks to CafĂ© Ladro to refresh ourselves with coffee and tea and get our second wind. That done, we went back to the festival and tasted some more until our tokens were gone.

This festival was pretty much all about beer, period; there wasn't much to do there except drink. But there were some entertainment offerings; local bands played throughout most of the day, there was a BMX stunt bike performance the afternoon we were there (young guys jumping over beer kegs on their bicycles), there was an evening comedy show for an additional charge, and there was a chainsaw pumpkin-carving contest and exhibition. If you have never seen someone carve a pumpkin with a chainsaw, this is your lucky day; here’s a video David shot of the performer who did an exhibition of this little-known art form.

We were hoping that the light rain that was falling when we left home would follow the typical Seattle pattern of stop-and-start passing showers, but it never really did let up all day. I also assumed that, this being the beginning of fall in a place known for rain, the event would be held in a big indoor space (kind of like the exhibit halls at Fort Mason in San Francisco), or at least under some big tents. Ha! There were a few tables with umbrellas, and the beer-dispensing stations were protected by awnings, but mostly people just stood around in the rain, occasionally remarking on it but never outright complaining about it, which would have been what passes for gauche and unsophisticated behavior in a city where everyone dresses as if they are going camping all the time. And it’s not as if the rain kept people away in droves, either — there were plenty of people in attendance.

So we, too, cheerfully stood around all day in the rain drinking beer, because that’s what we Seattleites do. And so this seems to me a good place to close out this chronicle of our first year in Seattle. We've gone through all the seasons here; spent some time exploring the Cascades, the Olympics, and the San Juans; searched for — and often found — local pleasures to console us for the San Francisco home we left behind. We have learned to love and even crave the dim, gray, shadowless light of the north that yields such wonderful photographs. David even occasionally considers whether or not he would look good in a kilt.*

All this is to say that I’m planning to take a break from posting to this blog for a while, so I can focus on some other writing I’d like to do. The acclimation process that fueled these posts is for the most part complete. The summer season of festivals and outdoor recreation is over. Now it’s hunker-down time in the PNW.

I still reserve the right to post something new here sooner rather than later, so do check back occasionally. For now, I’ll end by telling you what it was like flying back into Seattle after a business trip earlier this summer. Approaching Seattle by air from the east at sunset, I first oriented myself by the bodies of water: Is that Lake Sammamish? No, it’s Lake Washington; I must have been confused because Mercer Island isn't visible from my window. And is that Green Lake? Yes, and there’s the canal, and the Ballard locks, and Magnolia, and Queen Anne Hill with its steep, wooded eastern slope along Dexter Avenue. And there’s the Space Needle and the bright curvy roof of the Experience Music Project; there’s downtown and Elliott Bay; there’s West Seattle. Beyond that, the expanse of Puget Sound, and beyond that the familiar silhouette of the Olympic Range where we had just taken our first real trip into the Northwest outdoors. I don’t really know or possess this place yet as I did San Francisco, but scraps of memory are starting to attach themselves to it. As we were landing I overheard the woman in the seat in front of me ask the young man sitting next to her, “Is Seattle home?” I had to smile, answering silently for myself, “Well...it’s getting to be.”


*See my very first post, November 7, 2007.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Autumnal equinox

Today is the actual autumnal equinox, but for me, fall arrived sometime last week. Suddenly I became aware that the light wasn’t quite as bright when I got up as I would like it to be, and the end of the workday brought more intimations of nightfall and bedtime than of freedom to get back to my own life. It was as if a curtain had come down. It hardly seems possible that just three weeks ago it was still summer and we were kayaking in the San Juans. Of course, the days have been getting shorter ever since the summer solstice back in June, but it wasn’t until last week that sunrise and sunset finally crept close enough to one another to bump up against the start and end of my days. And the rain is back, after almost four weeks with little or no precipitation.

Gray skies, sweater days — it’s finally back to normal around here.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

San Juan Islands kayak trip, Part 3: Art and nature, and a monster of a sailboat

After we ended our kayak trip at Roche Harbor, we had one more night and most of a day left on San Juan Island before catching the Clipper back to Seattle. There’s a shuttle bus that runs from Friday Harbor to various tourist destinations on San Juan Island, so on Friday the 5th we took the bus out to Lime Kiln Point and Whale Watching Park on the west side of the island. The park got its name from the fact that orcas can often be seen from the shore there, but they weren’t around when we were there.

Then we took another bus out to the Westcott Bay Sculpture Park near Roche Harbor on the north side of the island. The grounds are surprisingly extensive, with trails leading across a meadow and through stands of trees to sculptures of all kinds, some of them mysteriously tucked away among the reeds and grasses.

Here’s the main meadow.


This bronze sculpture depicts a turtle with a relief of Puget Sound in its back (“Turtle Island Puget Sound,” by Mark Stevenson).


This is “Treseder,” by Julie Speidel, which I liked for the way it plays with light and shadow, solids and negative space.


This is “Grape Leaf Gate” by Tom Torrens.


Here’s David with “Entry,” by Tom Small.


And a detail of the hummingbird on Paul Thorne’s “Hummingbird Gate.”


In the afternoon, after a late lunch of veggie burgers and beer at the Front Street Ale House back in Friday Harbor, it was time to board the Clipper. On the way back the captain slowed the vessel so we could get a good look at some sea lions hauled out on some rocks, and then we saw, first at a great distance and then up close, the BMW Oracle Racing 90 trimaran, which was out for one of her sea trials.


This sailboat is off the scale. She has a 158-foot mast and a 5,000 square-foot mainsail, is 100 feet long, and was built at an estimated cost of $10 million. Oracle’s Larry Ellison is trying to win a court decision that will allow him to race BMW Oracle Racing 90 in the 2010 America’s Cup. It seems like a pretty big gamble. Here’s a link to a Seattle Times story about it. After reading the story, I felt especially fortunate to have gotten a good look at the boat, since relatively few people got to see her while she was here.

And with that, our first full summer in Seattle officially came to a close. Sun, it’s been nice knowing you. See you next year.

(All photos by David.)

San Juan Islands kayak trip, Part 2: Island life and the watery border

One of the ways Outdoor Odysseys tries to distinguish themselves is by the food they serve on their trips. Here’s one of the several uses to which that Dutch oven was put: a frittatta for breakfast Wednesday morning. It was worth the weight.


After breakfast we went for a hike on the island while Chris prepped lunch; the plan was to go for a paddle in the afternoon over to the west side of Stuart Island. Part of Stuart Island is a state park, but there are also some residents — there are a couple of working farms, as far as I could tell. David and I walked on a trail and along the gravel county road to the little settlement on Prevost Harbor around the corner from our campsite was, past the one-room schoolhouse, which was in session again after being closed for a year due to lack of enrollment. Near the schoolhouse there was an interesting honor-based open-air souvenir kiosk, DBA “Boundary Pass Traders.” The business belongs to a family that lives on the island. They stock a treasure chest with their merchandise — T-shirts, note cards, hats, etc. — and you take what you want to buy and send them a check in the mail. Apparently, it works, as they’ve been in business for a number of years. David bought a T-shirt and I chose a pack of note cards.


Here’s the little dock house at Prevost Harbor, with tourist.


And the Post Office:


It’s all very bucolic.


After we got back to camp and had lunch, we got in the kayaks and paddled around the north shore of Stuart Island to Turn Point on the west side, which faces Boundary Pass, the border between the U.S. and Canada.


It’s a big shipping channel, but the waters are so protected and calm that we were able to get right up next to the cliffs and look down into the water at amethyst-colored starfish. Later we paddled away from the island into a swirling eddy, formed a raft with the three kayaks all together, and spun round and round until the eddy spat us out.

The next day, Thursday the 4th, we packed up our campsite and returned to San Juan Island. It was a shorter return trip because we were landing at Roche Harbor, which is closer to Stuart Island than Small Pox Bay, where we started our trip. We got to see some river otters and a lot of harbor seals on this part of the trip, as we paddled between Spieden Island and the very small, uninhabited Sentinel Island, both of which have rocks along the cliffs that are popular haul-out sites for marine mammals.

A couple of stinky but happy kayakers at Roche Harbor (no showers or hot water at the state campground on Stuart Island).


I think the San Juans have spoiled me for all other sea kayaking. It helped that we had perfect conditions — cool, nearly windless, no rain. Then there’s the mystery of all these islands — large and small, inhabited and deserted, in this inland sea that is so protected yet still so wild-seeming. It’s absorbing to observe the currents and landforms and try to figure out how to work with them. And the intriguing homes and other buildings on shore also inspire the imagination. I loved being able to go to places, like the cliffs at Turn Point, that are inaccessible by any other means. I’m sure we will be back out there many times.

Next: Back to the landlubber’s life.

(All photos by David.)

Saturday, September 20, 2008

San Juan Islands kayak trip, Part 1: Getting there

Labor Day signaled the beginning of the end of our first full summer in Seattle. We thought it would be fitting to have a capstone experience before the earth started its inexorable tilt towards winter. And we picked the perfect way to do it: a three-day kayaking-and-camping trip in the San Juan Islands.

On Monday the 1st (Labor Day), we began our trip in downtown Seattle, boarding the Victoria Clipper for a three-and-a-half-hour voyage to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. That run of the clipper serves both as transportation to Friday Harbor and as a wildlife-viewing tour, so they had a naturalist on board pointing out the sights.

Here I am, looking cold with the bridge over Deception Pass in the background (it was gray and chilly the morning we set out).



Friday Harbor is a little tourist town with an extensive marina. We arrived around lunchtime and our kayak trip didn’t start until the next day, so we had time to wander around the docks. On the path to the marina, we saw a life-sized granite sculpture of a harbor seal in a playful pose.


Only one of the eyes contained a shell inlay, so I thought the sculpture had been vandalized.


Then, when we got down to the docks, this little guy popped up to the surface.



He hung out right there next to the floating dock where we were standing for a minute or so while we watched him and talked to him. Turns out he’s known as Popeye, the one-eyed resident harbor seal, and the supposedly vandalized sculpture was really a tribute to him.

The next morning, we met our guide from Outdoor Odysseys and the three other kayak trip guests. David took this misty, moody picture of the Washington State Ferry at the Friday Harbor dock while we were waiting for the group to gather.


Our guide’s name was Chris; she was around thirty years old, originally from Massachusetts, cheerful and low-key — a good personality for an outdoor guide. She’s been doing seasonal work around the West Coast for a couple of years and loving it. Here she is on the last day of the trip, with a friend she picked up.

We all hopped in the van and drove from Friday Harbor across to the west side of San Juan Island to Small Pox Bay, which was to be our launching point.

We had a brief lesson in paddling and loaded up the kayaks with everything we would need for three days. It is amazing how much stuff you can fit into a double kayak. We had three double kayaks for the six of us, into which we fit all our personal gear (clothing, toiletries, etc.), sleeping bags for all, four tents, a full-sized two-burner camp stove, a gallon tank of propane, a heavy cast-iron Dutch oven, a couple of boxes of wine, a big box of produce, and around eight rectangular, lidded plastic buckets containing more than enough food for six people for seven meals. Here I am with our loaded kayak.


Chris said, “Now, don’t freak out, because it sounds like a really long distance, but we’ll be paddling 12.7 miles today. It’s our longest day of the trip.” Yikes! Fortunately I had my big engine (David) in the back of my kayak. We paddled along the western shore of San Juan Island and north through Mosquito Pass (a narrow passage through numerous small islands) until we stopped at tiny, uninhabited Posey Island for lunch. After lunch, we encountered the toughest part of the route, the crossing of Spieden Channel, a wide channel where the current happened to be against us. As a reward, though, we were granted a great sighting of a small pod of Dall’s porpoises. The water was so still and the air so quiet that not only could we see them as they swam by us, but we could clearly hear them breathing out and in.

Eventually we made it to our destination, the northeast side of Stuart Island, to the state campground there. We would be base camping for two nights. Here’s our campsite the first morning; note the water like glass.

Next: Exploring Stuart Island.

(All photos by David.)

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Little Si and Bumbershoot

A few weeks ago, David and I experienced two Seattle classics: the hike to the summit of Little Si and the Bumbershoot music festival at Seattle Center.

Little Si (pronounced "sigh")* is a 1,576-foot peak in the Cascades. It's a very popular hiking destination, because it's less than an hour's drive east from Seattle and because the five-mile round-trip, 1,200-foot climb to the summit isn't too difficult for most hikers. It's so popular in summertime that the trail has been compared by some to a freeway.

Despite that reputation for crowds, we decided to hike Little Si anyway, because it was David's birthday and we had both taken the day off work but hadn't made any other plans. Just as we started rolling in the car, it started to rain. Then we missed the turnoff to go east and had to drive around the neighborhood of Beacon Hill looking for a way to get back on the freeway, the rain getting heavier by the minute. We came this close to giving up, but then it occurred to us that maybe the weather would be different if we went inland.

Sure enough, after we got east of Lake Washington the rain stopped. And all the other Seattleites who had taken the day off to go hiking before summertime slipped away must have given up just as we almost did, so there were only four other cars parked at the trailhead.

As it turned out, the weather was ideal — cool, and only passing showers whose raindrops hardly penetrated the canopy. Such lush green vegetation. How dry California seems by comparison!

Here we are at the summit, with the Snoqualmie River valley in the background.



And from the other direction, the birthday boy, with the adjacent cloud-veiled peaks behind him.

This is not a very flattering picture of me, but it was David's study in green and brown, and I love the way my shirt, skin, and hair dissolve into the mossy background. I could almost be invisible.

As a bonus, on the way home from Little Si we stopped at Snoqualmie Falls, where the world's first completely underground hydroelectric plant was built. The falls are 100 feet higher than Niagara Falls, I found out. (But of course, the area covered by Niagara Falls is much broader.)

Then, the following Saturday, which was Labor Day weekend, we attended the Bumbershoot music and arts festival. If Folklife is the official summer festival opener in Seattle, then Bumbershoot is the official closer. We found Folklife more to our taste, we decided; Bumbershoot is much more oriented to a, ahem, a younger crowd. We did see a few acts we liked: Estelle, an R&B singer from England; Wreckless Eric and Amy Rigby (a husband-and-wife duo; he's English, she's American); and Beck, who was the headliner.

We were also glad to see Kazutaka Nomura, aka PWRFL Power, again. He's a wispy Japanese singer-songwriter-guitarist whom we first encountered last fall at Reverb Fest, a showcase of local music held in the Ballard neighborhood. At the time, he was a student in Seattle, but since then he has moved to New York. The Seattle crowd was still glad to show him some love, though. He has these quirky little lyrics sung in a very offhand, low-key way, and they almost lull you into not noticing the fantastic guitar work he's doing. Click this link to go to his MySpace page; the clips you can hear on the page don't really do him justice, but I recommend "CHOPSTIX SONG" to give you a flavor of what his music is like.

*In case you're wondering, there is a big Si, called Mount Si, next door to Little Si. It's 4,167 feet high and much more challenging to hike than Little Si. Maybe next time.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Little-known facts: She has a sister ship, the Italic. And a research submarine, the Underline.

The day after my parents returned to San Diego, David and I toured the Bold, the EPA's Ocean Survey Vessel. She's a former submarine-monitoring ship from the Cold War. Now she's used to conduct surveys of sediments, pollution, sea life, etc.

We got to see the lab where EPA scientists conduct analyses of samples they've collected, and the bridge, with all the instruments of propulsion and navigation. We saw the side-scan sonar device sitting on the deck, and below-deck we saw samples of the video sonar pictures it makes of the seafloor. We also saw a demo of a nifty piece of gear that region 10 (this region) owns — a miniature propeller-driven remote-control submersible video device that zipped around the surface like a playful animal before diving to the bottom of the bay and sending back to the video monitor on deck pictures of fish, anemones, and sea stars. David took a video of the video:


It was all very cool — I wanted to run away to sea! (Actually, David did put himself on the waiting list to join the survey trip the Bold conducted off the coast of Oregon the following week, but unfortunately, the one person who cancelled didn't notify the coordinator in time for David to go.)